Last but not least, in fact, most

Still on the train, having just passed through Lancaster.

 

Got up Sunday morning and plotted in the walk for my last day on the Pennine Way.  The route promised to be right around 20 miles.  For whatever reason, I had a crisis of organization and took longer getting everything packed out than I’d taken any other day.  Donald and I had decided to walk together.  His wife in Canada had my mobile number and would call if she got word from John.  It wound up doing us little good, since most of the day we were in the dark so far as Vodafone was concerned.

 

The early part of the walk ran along the Tees through just plain gorgeous countryside.  We touched at a couple of nice waterfalls.  The weather was warm and fair.  Even at home, we would have called it scattered clouds.  The word had gotten out, too.  During this day, I saw three times the number of other walkers I saw in the whole of the previous 11 days.  It really felt like the last day of the long walk would be a very soft snip. 

 

Of course, there had to be a few surprises.  Early in the afternoon, we were still along the river bank, but there were patches of heavy rock fall to scramble over.  Later, we climbed up 30 meters or so of tumbled rock to cross the head of the Tees and walk into Cumbria.  It was basically like doing all the bits of Old Rag where you need to climb all in one go.  There was a long stretch across pastures then some fairly blank moor, much of it a military firing range.  Late in the day, though, we got a big treat.  The trail walks right up to and then hugs the edge of a massive gorge.  The views were spectacular. 

 

After that, it was just a long downhill into the village of Dufton.  This ought to have meant it was just an easy stroll, but I’d finally developed a few aches, just in the muscles above my knees.  They made walking down any kind of slope somewhat painful and twingey.  Manifestly, I think my body had figured out this was slated to be the last day of walking, and it wanted to make sure I didn’t change my mind. 

 

I wasn’t too distracted to enjoy the trip, though.  This next bit will mean more to Mom than anyone else.  As I was walking down, I suddenly got a strong whiff of what smelled like coconut oil.  Through a low spot in the wall to the left, I saw a big field thick with gorse.  Mom and I had been told in Keswick that a big patch of gorse would smell of coconut, but we’d never noticed it.  On a warm sunny day it turned out to be entirelytrue. 

 

I bid farewell to the Pennine Way at the Stag Inn in Dufton.  I called my host at Millbeck House in Moreton.  He said I’d be wisest to have dinner at the Stag and then he’d pick me up around 8:30.  I had a nice bit of roast beef and a few pints.  I shared a table with Donald and some of the rest of his party.  His son John was there in Dufton waiting for him.  I also properly met Paul, the fellow who was walking the whole way with whom I’d overlapped in Malham and Tan Hill.  He hadn’t been able to get the North volume of the guide, so I passed him mine as well as a little jar of tiger balm. 

 

Garmin Facts:  21 miles in 7:59 walking 1:22 resting.  Moving average 2.6 mph.  Overall average 2.2 mph.  719 meters climbed. 

 

My host for the evening showed up right on time.  He got himself a pint and he, Paul, and I sat talking about walking for a while.  Then he drove me back to his B&B.  I’ve never been made to feel more like a guest who just happened to be paying.  We had a great, wide ranging conversation on the way.  He is also a former serviceman, though he carried it a bit further than I did.  We talked guardedly at first about world events in which our two great nations have entangled themselves, then opened up a bit when we found we both agreed we had stepped in it.  I had a highly therapeutic soak in a hot tub.  I couldn’t think of a single thing they could have provided that I lacked.  I fell asleep under my book.

 

This morning, I had a lovely breakfast, then got a ride to Penrith Station.  My host had even called the rail company and figured out what trains would be best for me.  More good conversation on the way and I’ve been rolling south quite comfortably ever since.  Before I post this, I’ll dig back out the details.  I would recommend anyone wanting to tour the lakes or the dales to consider using these folks as a base.

 

 

I just ran a little spreadsheet of my walking so far.  It comes to a hair over 230 miles.  I expect to largely take a day off from walking today as I get myself resettled in Wiltshire.  I look forward to not relocating every day.