Wednesday, April 28, 2004

On the loose in London

 

Breakfast at the hotel was of average quality but exceptional convenience.  We took a preliminary shopping trip out to Queensway mostly looking for a mobile phone, but found we were too early for the shops.  Just as well we did the short walk, though, as it convinced Mom she was wearing the wrong shoes for a long walk.  We swung back through the hotel to grab stuff for the day and Mom changed shoes.

 

We walked across Hyde Park, mostly along the bank of the serpentine – a lake that winds across the park from north to south.  It was a lovely morning, just cool enough that walking around wasn’t sweaty work.  The park was fairly empty on a Tuesday morning, but there were a scattering of people, most of them exercising dogs off the lead.  Don’t know whether that was legal or not, but all the dogs seemed well behaved. 

 

The lake itself looks picturesque, but not like very clean water.  In fact, there are signs all along warning against swimming in it or letting dogs in.  Then we came upon a swimming club – the Lido.  Seemed like a mixed message. 

 

As we got close to the southern edge of the park, we heard drums and trumpets, and started walking towards them to find out what was up.  We came upon a fenced ring in which a bunch of young people dressed in battledress jackets (forest camo) and brown riding breeches and holding short lances straight up and down with the butt in the right stirrup (is this “couched?” I’m not sure.) were practicing fancy riding maneuvers.  They were being ordered around by a fellow wearing what I think were cavalry sergeants stripes.  The band were on horseback as well, including two men playing bugles and one fellow with kettle drums.  The riders were in two troops with different colored helmets and were working on all sorts of fancy maneuvers at many of which, judged by the amount and sarcasm of the shouting from the sergeant, they were not very good.  They bore it in good grace though and kept trying. 

 

Mom got some pictures.  I had ingeniously left the memory card for my camera back in the room in my computer, so was essentially out of film.  I will try to lift some pictures from Mom later to add to this entry.

 

We turned east around the foot of the Serpentine and walked along Rotten Row.  I don’t know why “Rotten”.  It’s a broad track a few dozen yards inside the boundary of the park with lanes running parallel for walkers, cyclists, and people on horses.  Close to the south east corner of the park, we walked over into a beautifully planted garden, mostly tulips with coordinated low flowering plants bedded around them.  Obviously a lot of work for the gardeners, but it was a lovely sight. 

 

We made our way through a big circle of war memorials over into the Green park – more tulips and so forth even more elaborately groomed.  That led us to the front of Buckingham Palace.  The building is a little drab, but of course huge and imposing.  The giant sculpture of Victoria in the circle out front makes up for any lack of décor on the palace front.  After some exciting traffic crossings, we were in St James Park – still more elaborate plantings and a beautiful little lake. 

 

Again we heard march music – this time with bag pipes.  We dashed over across Birdcage Walk just in time to see the tail end of a brief parade of guards.  You certainly get reminded, even without seeking out opportunities, that the power of the royal family is rooted in having a bunch of armed people ready to do whatever they say.  Still, I think the Queen picks up the tab for all the gardeners whose work we’d been enjoying, and Sara and I have enjoyed her hospitality in some parks she lets the public use in Sydney, so I’m still in favor of the royals.

 

Birdcage Walk becomes Great George street and leads you towards the Houses of Parliament.  They make our capital back in DC look a little dowdy, although the Parliament building in Budapest could give them a fair fight.  Walking in this area and crossing Westminster bridge was the only time of the day we were in a real crush of other people. 

 

Just called our flight for boarding.  More later.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Rotten Row = "route de roi," bastardized by the English in their inimitable frog-bashing way.  If the results of a quick google search are to believed, that's the nomenclature.